Dog Grooming Tools

There are various cutting tools for use on dogs’ coats. Stripping combs, knives, scissors, and shears can all be useful, whether your dog needs a trim, a thinning out, or just a routine tidy- up.

There are also special nail clippers available for pets. Electric clippers are probably best restricted to professional use unless you’re an expert. Handling them badly can harm a dog’s skin.

Thinning shears

An effective tool with one regular and one serrated blade. The aim is to thin the coat without acting. Its appearance too much, so the shares are usually used on the undercoat, the topcoat being combed up out of the way. This preserves the color of the outer Handling coat in dogs which have a different colored undercoat

Using a Stripping Knife

Stripping combs (“dressers”) and knives provide a serrated metal cutting edge for removing dull, dead hair. The stripping comb has a removable guard-plate on one side and comprises a razor blade mounted against a comb. A stripping knife is just a metal blade with a handle, like a butter knife. Stripping is often combined with “plucking” – using the thumb and forefinger to pluck out dead hair.

Brush the coat well ‘ to fully separate all the hairs. For silky-coated dogs, chalk powder dusted into the coat gives you a better grip.
Grasp a section of hair between knife and thumb and pull the knife away with a twisting motion. Dead hair comes out, live hair is trimmed Scissors Barber’s scissors can be used on dogs, but for safety’s sake, they must be the type with round-ended blades.

The most useful size is 12.5 cm. Use scissors for trimming “wispy hair” in delicate areas, especially around the eyes, ears, lips, feet, anal and genital areas. Never cut the sensitive whiskers on a dog’s muzzle. Scissors can also be used in conjunction with a comb to remove mats and snags.

Special care for show-dogs

Scissors and thinning shears are used on show dogs in the same way, although the extra grooming that show animals need actually cuts down on the need for scissors. Both tools can be used to make minor adjustments to the coat or to shape it in order to “balance” the look of the dog. A dog may need last-minute touches such as a thinning over the shoulders or a slight trim on the legs before being presented in the show-ring. Take care not to trim of too much hair.

Using Scissors

Careful use of scissors around the eye can prevent the problems suffered by some spaniels and terriers, particularly where hair irritating the eye causes a sticky discharge. Use scissors to improve the vision of non-show. Maltase and Old English Sheepdogs; trim the fringe, then thin it.

The tactile hairs on the ears and the muzzle are too sensitive to be stripped or plucked, but you can trim these areas with scissors if you take care to give any “whiskers” intact. Hair between the pads of the paws can be trimmed on long-haired breeds, to avoid matting or dirt in the house.

Hair around the penis of male dogs may need an occasional trim for hygiene; this can be necessary in the vulval area of bitches too. Similarly, it is sensible to keep hair in the anal region short to avoid matting. Use a comb to lift the mat away from the skin and then cut above the comb. Once a mat is reduced, it can be combed out.

Clipping a Dogs Nails

Most of the nail bed, but it narrows right down at the tip, so make allowances for this. Dogs with black nails tend to have longer nail beds. Err on the side of caution and learn by the first one you cause to bleed. Place the dog on an easily-cleaned surface.

Have a styptic pencil or other caustic to hand to stop any bleeding. You may also need to apply a light dressing. Check the dew claws on the inside of the leg if your dog hasn’t had these removed. They don’t wear down and, if covered with hair, may be forgotten.

Continue Reading

Bathing Your Dog

ging your lab a bath

There’s no simple answer to the question “How often should I bath my dog?”
A dirty or smelly dog needs a bath, although a little dirt can often be brushed out when dry. Many dogs need more baths in summer, others need a regular monthly bath, but few need a bath more often than this.

Some dogs, particularly Scottish Terriers, tend to get dirty skins through a build-up of dandruff. They may need a bath every two to four weeks. If this becomes a problem, consult your vet. Always groom your dog before bathing it, or you could make matting much worse.

Never use household detergent or carbolic soap; many dogs’ skins react badly to these. You can use a mild “human” soap, but a special dog shampoo or baby shampoo is best. The water should be comfortably warm. You can use your own bath for your dog as long as you wash it down well afterward.

A baby bath is ideal for a small dog – you can place it at an easy working height indoors or out. For large dogs, you could use a child’s paddling pool but watch that the dog’s nails don’t puncture it. A rubber car mat can prevent this; used in the bath it also helps stop the dog slipping. If your dog does slip, it may panic and soak the room!

Continue Reading

A Flea Haven on Your Dog?

The common flea

We have got flea markets but they are not actually places where you can buy fleas but rather places where you may obtain purchases at very reasonable prices. Flea havens, however, would refer specifically to places where fleas of all types gather and meet to their hearts’ content. And least we forget – the fleas referred here are literally fleas – insects, mites and what have you, and their main purpose is to live off the animal.

Fleas (of any type) make life miserable. These insidious little parasites pass other parasites to your pet. Their bites and debris cause skin disorders and allergic reactions resulting in itchy skin with a perpetually scratching dog. Anemia can occur if fleas are present in great numbers.

Realizing the potential dangers fleas impose, how do we get about eliminating them? First of all, identify the location of the enemy. The belly area is a good place to look for fleas since the coat is usually not as heavy there. Fleas are tiny, dark-brown or reddish, and they move fast! They feed on blood but do not swell up as ticks do. The white specks detected on your pet’s coat are their eggs and they will mature just as readily in your carpet as in your garden. Having located the fleas, the next most sensible step is to eliminate the pests.

The best way is to bathe your pet in a flea shampoo. Bathing not only kills the fleas but also wash off irritating debris – something a spray or powder cannot do. Depending on the severity of the flea, problem, baths should be given often – once a week if necessary.

Residual flea killers should follow the flea bath to prevent new fleas from dropping in for lunch. The least expensive is, of course, the flea collar – effective from 1 to 4 months but losing their potency faster in our hot and humid weather. A flea and tick dip may be applied to the coat after shampooing. It can last effectively for about 2 weeks but again will lose its potency if your pet gets wet.

Flea powder or spray is also useful if your pet cannot tolerate a collar. However, weekly or bi-weekly applications are needed along with a good brushing to get rid of any flea dirt. On the other hand, common sense will tell you that it won’t do you much good to rid your pet of fleas if he only picks them up again a month later.

The most likely places where fleas, mites, and ticks live in the house would be the carpets and all the little nooks and crevices. Have these places well vacuumed. The pet’s bedding must also be cleaned regularly with flea powder. The garden is also another place where these pests enjoy lying around while waiting for their next target.

It is, therefore, a good idea to spray your garden regularly with a good flea killer such as malathion. Get the commercial flea exterminator to do the task if it is beyond your handling. Always remember that fleas and their related cousins are crafty and tough, and they multiply so fast that if your weapons aren’t close at hand, they will take advantage, take over your pets, your house, and yard, You aren’t exactly their first choice for a meal, but in the absence of something better, they may pick on you too!

Continue Reading

Why Does My Dog Dig?

“RUFUS,NO!” Even dog owners who accept that dogs dig, and who acknowledge that digging is the nature of the beast, occasionally lament, “Why does that dog dig up my flowers?” Dogs do not dig to be naughty, nasty, vengeful, destructive or vindictive.

Dog owners can help themselves and their dogs by keeping digging problems in perspective. Dogs do dig for many reasons, so changing the behaviour when it becomes a problem can be complicated. For instance, Rufus may like to dig in flower or vegetable beds because that is where he sees you, his role model, showing him how!

You dig and put things into the soil (seeds, plants, bushes, stakes). At other times, you dig and remove things (seedlings, weeds, carrots). Your enjoyable gardening pursuits could he mistaken for lessons in digging technique. Unless or until Rufus understands the rules of gardening – “Do as I say, not as I do” – it is counterproductive to punish.

To arrive at a successful solution to the problem, use the three basic rules of discipline:

  • Correction when caught in the act followed by praise for stopping.
  • Teaching what is acceptable.
  • Prevention by removing the opportunity for further misbehavior.
  • Leaving dogs indoors while your garden is an easy way to begin reforming problem diggers. If the dog is outside, you must keep an eye on it and teach as you garden. This is especially critical when working with a puppy. Freshly turned soil smells good and offers irresistible temptation. In addition, puppies consider digging pure playtime. A simple 12- to 18-inch fence (reinforced with a few “no’s”) can curb the urge to dig.

In the Genes

Canine digging is linked to survival. Dogs dig safe dens in which to sleep and rear their young. They dig to hide their food supply. Wild canine species bury kill they cannot immediately eat, usually urinemarking the spot, which says to other creatures, “Keep your paws off. This, meat is mine!” Canine specialization has also made a contribution to certain dogs’ digging tendencies.

Terriers were originally bred to extricate prey (especially vermin) from earth tunnels. (The word terrier comes from the Latin word terra, meaning earth.) This behavior contributes to hunting successes, but it can be a gardener’s nightmare.

A small Norfolk Terrier can leave annoying potholes, but an Airedale is capable of digging caverns. Terrier owners face destroyed lawns when the trail of a mole tempts one of these dogs. Keep you cool. Remember, terriers have been digging for the past 800 years or so.

You can’t repair lawn damage by yelling at the dog. If you catch the dog hell-bent for destruction (and vermin), show your displeasure, make the correction and remove the dog from the scene. However, a sure-fire way to put an end to this natural behavior is to eliminate the vermin. Northern breeds, more comfortable in snow banks, sometimes dig to get down to the cool earth beneath the warm surface soil.

Siberian Huskies are known for their excavating enthusiasm, and breeders routinely warn buyers that this is part and parcel of the Siberian temperament. Scolding or punishing won’t solve the problem.
Instead, relocate the dog to the basement or garage where it can he comfortably cool without having to dig.

Our dogs have adapted many of their instinctive ways to adjust to living in our households, but digging remains a common behaviour in all dogs. Like other normal behaviours that we do not find acceptable in our 1990s pets, undesirable digging can be stopped. Digging often begins inadvertently.

For example, a puppy may begin digging while trying to pick up or paw at a stick. The dirt starts to fly and the pup gets carried away with the sheer fun of this new game. A firm but friendly No! combined with the distraction of a game more to your liking will help alter the urge to dig. Watch for signs of the pup’s attempt to repeat the adventure. Puppies are easily dis tracted and more eager to please you than are adult dogs.

Prevention and positive teaching produce results with dogs, especially with puppies. To prevent digging or to teach an alternative, more desirable pursuit, you must monitor the dog when it is outside. This time spent with the dog contributes to a quick and easy avoidance of all three major canine crimes: digging, barking and chewing.

Digging Out

Digging is not just annoying; it can be dangerous in the case of the dog that digs to escape. Occasionally, a dog digging alongside a fence discovers a new world on the other side. Being a normal sort of dog, it will want to investigate further. The problem is, the dog may end up getting lost, killed on the road or, at the very least, in trouble with neighbors.

Once successful at escaping, a dog is likely to continue its forays until it and the escape route are brought under control. A dog with a “don’t fence me in, or “barrier,” fixation requires patient behaviour modification, as well as numerous precautions taken for its safety. Keep calm; don’t punish the dog after an escape. That will only convince the dog that it’s not a good idea to come home after digging out.

Begin by inspecting your fence. For it to protect your dog and your property from intruders, the fence must he in good repair. For the chronic escape artist, install a trench about a foot deep and 18 inches wide directly below the fence on the inside.

Attach strong turkey wire to the bottom of the fence, lining the bottom of the ditch. Fill the trench with large stones and earth, and finish it of however you like. (Thorny climbing roses, perhaps?) While this renovation is under way, keep Rufus indoors, taking him elsewhere on lead for necessary walks. Spray the area thoroughly with one of the products made to keep pets off plants or outdoor furniture. Read the label to be sure it is safe if ingested.

Retrain Rufus by taking him out on a long, loose lead. You want him to attempt to investigate so you can make a correction, and he must be on lead so you have control. As he nears the fence, make a growling sound – aaacht – and say”‘no!” ‘Then,using a happy voice, draw his attention away from the fence. Mending the fence is half the cure; teaching the dog is the other half.

If Rufus responds to a negative command or sound you use for other misbehaviours, by all means use it to stop digging. But it will work only if you use it as you see him assume the digging position and lift one paw. Timing is critical.

An old soda can containing a few pennies or pebbles, thrown on the ground as you shout ‘no! ‘works well with dogs that need only a “don’t even think about it’ reminder. You may prefer to go modern and try one of the ultrasound devices on the market. The point is to have instantly available a means of control from a distance for use when Rufus is off lead. Use the minimum correction to which your dog responds.

What’s a Dog to Do?

The owner of a dog that was kept outdoors was upset because the dog was digging holes all over the yard. He complained that they were unsightly and, worse, filled up with water when it rained. It turned out that the dog was kept on a chain almost 24 hours a day and had nothing better to do.

Digging relieves stress, exercises muscles, provides activity, and it’s fun. So give the dog its due. An intelligent but bored dog had merely discovered the benefits of occupational therapy. Contrary to popular belief, dogs do not need endless hours of fresh air to he healthy and happy pets. In fact, most dogs kept much of the time indoors are more relaxed and content, and therefore better behaved. Indoors or out, canine behaviour problems need to be examined to understand the cause.

Only then can you retrain the dog. The dog associates your displeasure with its digging only when the correction takes place precisely as the dirt flies. Don’t be misled by Rufus’looks when you yell at him for something he did hours before.

That is not guilt; it is submission. When you punish the dog after the fact, all it learns is to stay out of your way. Sometimes a dog is relegated to the outdoors because it misbehaved in the house, and no one took the time to pinpoint the cause and solve the problem.

Out of sight, out of mind may be an easy solution for the owner, but not for the dog. He gets a sentence of solitary confinement when all he needed was to be taught right from wrong. The ‘bad dog” in the house inevitably becomes a “bad dog’ outdoors. Dogs left alone outdoors constitute the majority of diggers and barkers.

These behaviours result from the dogs’ desperate need for physical and mental exercise and companionship. You must provide walks and play for the former, more playtime and lots of hu- man contact for the latter. neouts are only for those occasions when it’s not possible to walk the dog; use them only for brief periods of time and never in combination with a choke collar.

Burying Bones

Few dogs dig to bury bones, perhaps because dogs are increasingly kept as pets, and we force them to retain infantile characteristics. Today’s predolescent dog in the wild would not be a hunter, nor would it bury surplus meat. It digs and buries only as playlearning. In my lifetime involvement with a variety of breeds, only one dog, a Cocker Spaniel, ever buried anything. On the other hand, a red squirrel that hangs out under my bird feeder buried close to 100 sunflower seeds in a nearby flower bed and followed this marathon by neatly planting” a cup of kibbled dog food putout for pheasants! Digging is instinctive in many animals, but it is often an exercise in futility when the reason for it becomes clouded.

Please Dig Here

It is amazing the lengths to which dog owners will go in their attempts to put a stop to unwanted digging. Creative – but ineffective – methods include filling each hole with pepper and filling a hole with water and pushing the dog’s nose into it. (Attempted drowning never taught a dog anything other than to have a healthy fear of water.)

These methods never work because dogs cannot connect the crime with the punishment. Many behaviour experts recommend providing an outlet for a digging-prone pet. Providing a digging pit and directing a dog’s earth-bound pursuits to a specified area may reduce its tendencies to enter forbidden territory.

I was sceptical about the pit (or sandbox) made expressly to give the dog some- place to dig, so I collected opinions from those who have used the method:

  • The owner of a Shih Tzu swears by the sandbox. Her dog stays clean (sand is easier to brush out than dirt), and its toys stay in one place.
  • A German Shepherd Dog owner dug an 8-foot-by-10-foot pit, filled it with clean, screened earth, put the dog through an intensive training period until he felt the dog understood what the pit was for and how to use it, only to have the dog start digging all over the yard – something it had never done before.
  • A Beagle mix was given a corner of the yard in which to dig. The owner buried dog biscuits as incentives to explore the pit. Barney promptly buried every dog biscuit given to him and otherwise avoided his designated play area.
  • Other people advised covering the box or pit before rain or at night to keep out neighboring cats; using a yard spray for fleas and ticks; and watching carefully what the dog had in its mouth when headed for.the burying ground.
  • The owners of a Great Pyrenees confessed that their dog had a penchant for their house guests underwear. The dog owners were unaware of their dog’s passion until they discovered the objects of its desire during one spring’s gardening. None of the guests had ever complained about their missing underwear
  • Perhaps the most often repeated warning was not to introduce the sandbox idea to any dog that has never shown any interest in digging, because the lesson can so easily backfire. If it ain’t broke – don’t fix it.
Continue Reading

Why Does My Dog Chew and How Can I Stop It?

It can be quite frustrating as a dog owner to come home to find any number of items chewed up beyond recognition. Not only can a dog chew up and destroy small things like shoes, television remotes or children’s toys, but they can also certainly tackle larger “prey”.

I have encountered some photos on the Internet of chairs completely chewed up by dogs, couches chewed up by dogs and even walls and doors chewed up by dogs. The intent of this article is to explain this chewing behavior and help find solutions to the problem.

Understanding why your dog chews

The first thing that you need to know is that chewing is perfectly normal behavior for a dog – especially a puppy under a year old. There are two reasons for normal chewing behavior. The first reason is that dogs use their mouths the way that humans use their hands.

Dogs pick up items with their mouths, move their puppies with their mouths and most importantly open things with their mouths. When a dog wants to test if something is good to eat or has something good to eat inside of it, they chew it up.

The second reason for normal chewing behavior is that puppies use chewing to help their adult teeth come in. Just like humans, puppies lose their baby teeth and they are replaced by adult teeth. This can be quite painful and chewing is one way to relieve the pain.

Have you ever noticed that your dog seems to chew on your personal items more than anything else? The reason for this is simple: Your dog likes your scent and is drawn to items that have your scent on them. The more time a dog spends near an object the more likely he is to chew it.

Chewing like other undesirable behaviors can also be a sign of boredom or loneliness. The old saying “Idle hands are the devil’s workshop” is certainly true for dogs are well (except the whole hand thing). If you notice that your dog seems to chew more when you are gone or when you are not paying attention to him, boredom could very well be the cause.

How to stop undesired chewing

Now that we have covered some of the basic causes of undesired chewing, now we can talk about how to stop this behavior. The first thing to do to accomplish this task is to determine which of the explanations for chewing seems to apply to your dog.

If your dog is chewing because he is teething then it is important to supply your dog with chewing toys to satisfy his teething needs. In reality all dogs should have chew toys around, but it is vitally important for teething puppies.

Never give your puppy an old shoe (or any other household item you wouldn’t want him to chew up if it were brand new). Your puppy cannot distinguish between the 15 year old sneaker and your new designer shoes.

Make sure and praise your puppy for chewing on the appropriate items. If you ever catch your puppy chewing on an inappropriate item, don’t scold them. Instead take away the inappropriate item and replace it with a chew toy.

If your dog seems to be chewing out of boredom then there are two things that need to be done. You need to provide appropriate chew toys.

As I mentioned above, chew toys are vitally important for a teething puppy but all dogs need to have something appropriate to chew on. Just as important is that your dog needs to have regular exercise. Just being let out into the backyard is not enough.

He needs to be walked on leash every day and also have other fun exercise activities such as fetch, agility training or field exercises.

If your dog seems to chew items more when you are gone from the house, this is a sign of loneliness. Being pack animals, dogs can suffer separation anxiety when separated from the rest of the “pack”.

One of the ways dogs relieve this anxiety is to chew on things. More often than not these are items that belong to members of the “pack”. You can add your scent to chew toys by tossing them into the clothing hamper for a few days with some of your clothes.

This will provide your dog with an appropriate chew toy with your scent on it. Also, never make a big deal out of leaving your dog home alone. This will only add to his anxiety.

Continue Reading